Traveling the Carretera Austral or Route 7 in Patagonia is a lifetime adventure. The legendary road in Chile offers incredible scenery, a unique ecosystem, and a thrilling feeling of being in the wilderness. If you want to go off the beaten track, discover new places, do wild hikes, and meet wonderful people, Chilean Patagonia is right.
We spent one month exploring the region. During that time we did several long-distance treks in Patagonia, spent weeks camping in the wilderness, and visited many off-the-beaten-path places. Patagonia is a region on the tip of South America divided by two countries Chile and Argentina. Chile is home to many of the best National Parks in Patagonia. We loved this unspoiled region and want to return one day to explore more of the Carretera Austral, the ultimate place to travel for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers.
If you have to choose a couple of places to visit in Chile I’d say the Carretera Austral and San Pedro de Atacama are not to miss there. On Argentina’s side don’t miss the Perito Moreno Glacier and Laguna de Los Tres, both located in the Los Glaciares National Park.
What is the Carretera Austral?
Carretera Austral or Rute 7 is a road in the Patagonia region of Chile in the extreme south of South America. The road connects the southern part of the Los Lagos Region and the Aysen Region of Chile. It’s known as a wild and beautiful region and a great place for a holiday filled with adventures.
Why we love the Carretera Austral
The Carretera Austral is an unspoiled and spectacular region with many parks and nature reserves.
There are many outdoor activities to do here like hiking, kayaking, rock climbing, cycling, etc. It’s a real paradise for nature lovers.
There are many amazing day hikes in Patagonia; the majority of hiking trails don’t require special permits or guides.
Despite being a wild region there are no dangerous animals like bears or wolves to be worried about. There are pumas living in the area but they’re very shy and try to stay away from people.
Patagonia is a relatively safe place (as safe as a wild place can be). It’s probably the best place in South America to travel solo.
Traveling the Carretera is a lifetime experience.
Facts about the Route 7
Total distance – 1240 km/770 miles
Starting point – Puerto Montt
Finishing point – Villa O’Higgins
Road conditions – ongoing road works, half of the way has been already paved, half is still in process.
Best season to travel – December – March, Patagonian summer
The cost of traveling – from US$20 per person (low budget) to US$90 pp. (comfortable)
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The history of the Carretera Austral
The construction of the Carretera Austral started in 1976 when Augusto Pinochet gave the order to connect remote villages of southern Chile with the rest of the country. Building the southern road was the most ambitious and expensive project in Chile in the 20th century.
Due to difficult terrain, weather conditions, and remoteness of the region the construction of the Carretera Austral took decades. The last stretch connecting Puerto Yungay and Villa O’Higgins was finished in 2000. Nowadays it’s an ongoing process of paving the road. Most parts of it are tarred but some are still gravel.
Where does it start and end?
The Carretera Austral starts in Puerto Montt, a beautiful town in the Lake District in southern Chile. From Puerto Montt, the road continues south to the extreme south of South America.
The Carretera Austral ends in the small village of Villa O’Higgins, in the Aysen Region in the south of Chile.
How much time do you need to explore it?
It depends on how many stops you want to make on your road trip and how long you want to stay in each place. I’d recommend having at least 1 week to drive the Carretera Austral. It gives you time to see the highlights of the region, do a couple of day hikes, and enjoy the tranquility and beauty of Chilean Patagonia. Spending 2 weeks driving the Carretera Austral would be perfect. The more time you have the better there are so many amazing places to visit that we could easily spend there a month or two.
Is the Carretera Austral paved?
The Carretera Austral is a permanent road construction site due to difficult rocky terrain, narrow fjords, mountains, rivers, and lakes it takes a lot of time to pave the road. Add to these unpredictable Patagonian weather; snow in winter, strong wind, and rainfall in summer, and an isolated location it takes a long time to get necessary construction vehicles there.
As of August 2023, Ruta 7 can be divided into two parts. The northern part from Puerto Montt to Coihaique 660 km/410 mi is paved with a bit of unpaved road here and there. The southern part from Coihaique to Villa O’Higgins 580 km/360 mi is still mostly gravel road. It’s planned to complete paving the Carretera Austral in the next years. Some parts between the towns have already been paved. When planning your trip keep in mind that it is much faster to travel on paved roads than on gravel.
When is the best time to travel?
The spring/summer months of November to March are the best time to travel the Carretera Austral. Average daily temperatures reach 20°C. At night it goes down to 15°C. It’s warm and sunny, the days are long, and all tourist facilities are open.
Patagonian weather is unpredictable even in the peak summer you can get days with heavy rains and hail. The wind is something to consider as well. December and January are the windiest months of the year. Even if it’s warm and sunny it can be very windy. It’s not a big problem if you travel by car and or stay indoors. If you cycle and camp you might have to adjust your plans according to the forecast.
Good weather attracts a lot of people. January and February are the busiest months on the Carretera Austral. It’s a summer holiday in Chile and Argentina. If you decide to come during that period it’s highly recommended to book accommodation, bus tickets, and activities long in advance.
We prefer to travel to the Carretera Austral in November or March when the weather is still good and there are not too many tourists.
If you’re planning to visit Torres del Paine and hike the famous W trek then the period between November and March is the best time to visit the park.
Carretera Austral travel cost
Accommodation
Camping is the most budget option here considering that in many places you can wild camp if you don’t mind being without basic facilities of course. You can find established campsites in every town or village on the Carretera Austral. The average price CLP 7000/US$8 per person/per tent (depending on the campsite).
Some bigger towns like Futaleufú or Coyhaique have traditional hostels with shared rooms and facilities, they cost about CLP 15000/US$17 per person.
Hotels/guest houses are very common in the area there are many from very basic cabins to luxury spa lodges, here everything depends on your budget, be ready to pay from CLP 20 000/US$23 to CLP 40 000/US$46 per person. In general, for the price you pay in Patagonia in other countries, you can get better facilities.
Transport
Hitchhiking is the cheapest option to move around though it can be a bit frustrating and time-consuming. Cycling won’t cost much money as well but it will take a lot of time, to cycle 1200 km partly on the gravel road is quite a mission.
Taking buses is not crazy expensive but sometimes you might get stuck in a place due to irregular bus service or no open spots on the bus. Buses connect the main towns on the Carretera and it’s possible to get around this way but you’ll have to plan. Buses to some places to go only a couple of times a week. The average price for a ride is between CLP 10 000/US$11 and CLP 15 000/US$17 depending on the distance. For long-distance buses e.g. from Puerto Montt you’ll pay from CLP 20 000/US$23.
Renting a car is the most comfortable way to travel the Carretera Austral and probably the most expensive though it depends on what car you rent and how many people you share it. The longer the rental period is the cheaper it gets per day. To rent a 5-seat sedan in Puerto Montt for 5 days will cost US$136 or US$27 per day if you’re more than two people it might be cheaper than taking buses. You can always find someone to share a car with once you hit the road.
Food
Making food is by far the cheapest way to eat in Patagonia. Groceries in shops are more expensive than in the rest of Chile but they are still affordable. Eating out is expensive in Patagonia, the food is quite basic. If you want to save money on food, book places with a kitchen or carry a camping stove (if camping). Buying food in shops costs CLP 10 000/US$11 per person per day. Eating out from CLP 10 000/US$11 per meal.
Activities and entrance fees
Hiking is free on the Carretera Austral. There are places where you pay the entrance fee but it’s usually between CLP 10 000/US$11 and CLP 20 000/US$23. Other activities are more pricey, e.g. doing a boat tour in Queulat National Park costs US$40 per person, hiking on Exploradores Glacier in Puerto Río Tranquilo from US$60, etc.
Traveling the Carretera Austral with different budgets
Backpacking (camping, hitchhiking, making food, doing free activities like hiking) – from US$20 per person per day.
Traveling with comfort (budget hostels, buses, making food, some paid activities) – from US$50 per person per day.
A luxury holiday (nice hotels, rental car, making food/eating out, paid activities) – from US$100 per person per day.
For the ultimate adventurous and hiking holiday combine a trip along the Carretera Austral with Torres del Paine National Park. The park offers a great variety of hiking routes from easy day hikes to challenging multi-day treks.
The highlights of the Carretera Austral
Puerto Montt
It’s the beginning of the Carretera Austral and the last big town for the next 660km till you reach Coyhaique. Make sure to draw money and stock supplies if you drive a car. I’d suggest doing a big shopping here. Besides being the starting point of the Carretera the town itself is quite nice and beautiful. If you have time we’d suggest staying here for a couple of days and exploring the area there are quite a few things to do.
Pumalín Park
There are two access points to the Parque Pumalín; Caleta Gonzalo and Sector Río Amarillo. If you coming from Puerto Montt you get first to Caleta Gonzalo, the ferry from Hornopirén arrives there. This park is an incredible place with many hiking trails and several campsites. It was a complete surprise for us we didn’t plan to stop here but in the end, we spent 5 days hiking and camping in Pumalín Park. The entrance is free.
Futaleufú
It’s a beautiful town on the border with Argentina, the first place on the Carretera Austral where you can cross to the neighboring country. The scenery around Futaleufú is breathtaking; pine forests, mountains, rivers, and waterfalls, are the ideal place for outdoor activities.
Things to do in Futaleufú
Hiking, there are many trails near the town e.g. Piedra del Águila, Garganta del Diabolo, Circuit Las Escalas.
Kayaking/Rafting on Río Futaleufú
Horseback riding
Rock climbing
Rappelling/ziplining
Futaleufú is quite a detour, 77 km east of the Carretera Austral most people stop here on the way to Argentina. Even if you’re not planning to cross the border it’s worth coming here. There are public buses from Chaitén and Puyuhuapi.
Queulat National park
Parque Nacional Queulat is a grat place to come for a day. It’s located just 20 km south of Puyuhuapi. The park offers several one-day hiking trails with breathtaking views of the Colgante Glacier (hanging glacier), lakes, and rivers. Entrance fee – CLP 8000/US$9 (adults), CLP 4000/US$4 (children). You can camp in Queulat National Park for CLP 10 000/US$10 per person.
Activities
Hiking, there are two trails, the longer one to the Mirador (viewpoint) and the shorter one to the lake.
Kayaking
Boat ride to the glacier
Coyhaique
It’s the biggest city in the northern part of the Carretera Austral. There are a couple of supermarkets and gear shops, it’s a good place to stock food supplies. There are not many activities you can do in the town, it’s a stopover place with the best infrastructure you can find in the area. We spent two days here mainly because I lost my backpack on the way (it fell out of a truck that picked us up on the road) so we had to do quite a bit of shopping.
Cerro Castillo
Villa Cerro Castillo is a tiny village on the Carretera Austral. It’s worth stopping here only if you’re planning to visit Cerro Castillo National Park otherwise you can skip it. There are two trekking routes in the park; a short day hike to the lake and back and a 4-day Cerro Castillo trek. For the second one, you’ll have to carry camping gear and food supplies. The park entrance fee for 1 day is CLP 20 000/US$23 per person, for 2+ days – CLP 30 000/US$34.
In busy months (January, and February) it might be difficult to get a bus from Cerro Castillo. All buses come from Coyhaique and are usually already full when they stop. We saw some people couldn’t get in and were forced to hitchhike.
Puerto Río Tranquilo
The Carretera Austral from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Tranquilo goes past stunning blue, turquoise, and greenish lakes and turquoise rivers. The town is located at General Carrera Lake an impressive emerald color lake. If you have a chance, check the lake out at different times of the day, the color changes depending on the light from dark blue to light green.
Río Tranquilo is a great place to stop for a day or two and enjoy some adventure activities other than hiking. Here you can do a boat tour to the Marble Caves or hike Exploradores glacier wearing crampons and a helmet and carrying an ice axe. It is the cheapest glacier hike you can do in Patagonia, CLP 45000/US$65 per person including transportation and gear.
The weather is very unpredictable and boat trips are often canceled due to very strong winds.
Chile Chico
This town like Puerto Río Tranquilo is located on the shores of Lago General Carrera so stunning views are guaranteed. Chile Chico is 100 km east of the Carretera Austral on the border with Argentina, it’s the last point to cross the border before Villa O’Higgins.
There are several activities to do from here but you’ll need a car or a shuttle to get there first;
Enjoy the scenery at the Laguna Verde, on the way, about 20 km before the town
Hiking to the Jeinimeni Lake in Jeinimeni National Reserve
Hiking the Piedra Calvada Circuit, a 10 km route with a steep ascent and a subsequent descent. This route can be combined with Jeinimeni Lake, it’s on the way.
Cochrane
This town is often unnoticed by tourists which is easy to explain; after days of exploring the natural wonders of the Carretera Austral and several hikes, travelers feel like finally getting to the end of the route. There are just too many amazing places. Though Cochrane deserves a stop for a day. I’d rather stay here than in Caleta Tortel.
The town has good infrastructure and several cozy guesthouses. It’s located close to Cochrane Lake and Tamango National Reserve another hidden gem of Patagonia. There are a couple of hiking trails in the park and along the lake that offer beautiful scenery. The entrance fee is CLP 5000/US$7.
Caleta Tortel
A tiny village with a wooden boardwalk instead of streets which is the main attraction there. The landscape of this remote area is quite impressive; fjord with mint-color water, forest, hills, etc. We walked around for a couple of hours and it was enough. Getting here without a car is a mission. If you have a car or get a ride it’s worth a short visit.
Villa O’Higgins
The end of the legendary Carretera Austral and the dead-end of the road. If you drive a car there is no way to go forward. To get anywhere from here you’ll have to drive back. For people, without a vehicle, it’s possible to use ferries and walk/cycle to cross from Chile to Argentina and continue your hiking adventure in El Chalten or visit the impressive Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate. If you like exploring off-the-beaten-track areas you might like a hiking trail to O’Higgins Glacier.
The town is tiny with only a gravel road that connects it to the rest of the world, it does give a feeling of being somewhere in a very isolated place, literally at the end of the world.
How to explore the Carretera Austral?
Road trip
Renting a car is by far the most comfortable way of traveling along the Carretera Austral. Many places can be reached only by car. Having a car gives you a lot of flexibility. Keep in mind the road conditions of the Southern Highway. A short distance doesn’t necessarily mean a quick drive.
It’s more expensive than taking buses but you’ll have the freedom to go anywhere you want considering that buses don’t go everywhere. If you’re more than people renting a car might be even not much more expensive than taking a bus.
Driving the Carretera Austral it’s important to consider ferries. In many places to continue the trip, you need a ferry. When planning your road trip check for ferries and if possible buy tickets.
Traveling by buses
It’s a good alternative if renting a car is not an option because it’s too expensive. Buses are one of the most popular ways of traveling the Carretera Austral. In the high season, buses fill up quickly. It’s sometimes difficult to get a seat. It’s highly recommended to buy tickets in advance. If tickets are purchased only on a bus then you should come to the bus stop early to make sure you get in. Buses don’t go everywhere but they do go to the main towns on the Carretera.
If you travel by bus there is no need to worry about ferries. Your bus ticket includes all necessary ferry rides. We didn’t use buses but saw once or twice that some people couldn’t get on a bus because there was no space. It was at Villa Cerro Castillo, and there was only one bus a day going from Coyhaique towards Puerto Rio Tranquilo.
Hitchhiking
It might be the most fun way of traveling the Carretera Austral because you meet many locals, make new friends, and at the same time the most time-consuming and sometimes frustrating. In the peak season, there are so many people hitchhiking that sometimes it can take hours to get a ride.
We spent two months hitchhiking the Carretera Austral and other parts of Patagonia and loved it but one time was enough. Next time we’ll rent a car and will stop to pick up hitchhikers! Hitchhiking does work pretty well in Patagonia and Chile in general remember if you go in January, or February you’ll have a lot of competition mainly from local students who are on holiday.
Cycling the Carretera
It’s probably the ultimate adventure and the best way to travel the Carretera Austral. We would love to do it one day. When we were there we were quite jealous of cyclists. It’s a completely different way of experiencing the region and seeing things. We met both first-time cyclists (not many though) and experienced travelers and for both cycling the Carretera Austral seemed to be quite challenging.
The weather here is very unpredictable, it gets very windy, and all of a sudden it starts raining so you must be prepared for tough days and long distances. Having the right gear and a good bicycle is important. It can be very challenging to cycle all 1200 km if you’re not a seasoned cyclist, so it’s better to do a section of the route.
Getting by ferries to the Carretera Austral
There are several port towns on the Carretera Austral where it’s possible to get by ferry. It might be a good option for those who want to get to Patagonia from Chiloe Island or prefer boats to buses and cars. Depending on how far you go by boat you skip some parts of the Carretera, mainly in the north.
Ferry routes for the 2024/25 season
Puerto Montt – Chaiten – leaves Tue at 12 pm. Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, and Sat at 11 pm. The journey is 9 hours. Price CLP 35000/US$38* per person, CLP 165 000/US$190 per car.
Puerto Montt – Puerto Natales – leaves every Friday at 4 pm. The cruise takes 4 days and 3 nights. It operates from the 25th of October to the 7th of March. Price from US$500 per person.
Quellón (Chiloe) – Puerto Cisnes – leaves Tue at 6 pm, Wed at 10 pm, Thu at 11.50 pm, Sat at 5 pm, Sun at 11 pm. It takes 12 hours. Price CLP 50 000/US$53** per person.
Quellón – Puerto Chacabuco (makes 9 stops on the route) – leaves every Wed and Sat at 11 pm. It takes 28 hours. Price CLP 47 300/US$50.
*Mon, Thu, and Fri ferries have special tariffs of CLP 19 200/US$20 per person.
**Tue, Thu, Sat ferries special tariffs of CLP 20 200/US$21 per person
Carretera Austral travel tips
Bring camping gear, you’ll need it, it saves a lot of money and increases your chances of finding accommodation during the peak season.
Always have snacks and ready-made food with you in case you get stuck in the middle of nowhere.
Every time you are in a place with an ATM, draw money, it can be a problem on the Carretera Austral, in some places, it’s difficult to get cash.
If you run out of cash and there are no ATMs nearby you can try to find a petrol station (usually they accept cards). Wait for a car to come and ask the driver if you can pay by card for petrol and get back cash. You can do the same in a shop.
Always have cash enough to pay for entrance fees, camping, and food. Many places don’t accept cards.
Bring a stove and cooking set because not all campsites have a kitchen. Buying meals at cafes and restaurants is expensive, but cooking will help to save money.
Be ready to have bad or no Internet connection, if you want to download books/movies/maps do it before you get to the Carretera Austral.
Everything in Patagonia is more expensive to save money, so buy camping gear and clothing beforehand.
Where to find ATMs?
In larger towns there are ATMs and many places accept cards. In smaller towns finding an ATM is a problem. It’s always a good idea to draw cash every time you get a chance. Most hotels and supermarkets accept cards but campsites, small grocery stores, buses, etc. often don’t.
Puerto Montt is a very busy town with many shopping malls and ATMs.
Hualaihue, has two ATMs on the main square only one of them works with international cards, and supermarkets accept cards.
Caleta Gonzalo (Pumalin Park), no ATMs, only cash.
Chaitén, no ATMs. Credit/debit cards are accepted in a few places, can buy bus tickets only in cash.
Puyuhuapi, no ATMs, no cards accepted.
Coyhaique, a couple of ATMs, credit/debit cards accepted.
Villa Cerro Castillo, no ATMs, only cash.
Puerto Río Tranquilo has no ATMs, some tour operators accept cards, and some shops accept cards.
Cochrane, two or three ATMs on the main square.
Caleta Tortel only cash.
Villa O’Higgins, no ATMs, some shops accept credit/debit cards, campsites and ferries mostly cash.
What to pack for the trip?
Those who’re planning to camp and hike in Patagonia will need camping gear and we’d recommend bringing good quality stuff, especially a tent, you’ll need one that can deal with strong winds and heavy rains.
A sleeping bag should be for lower temperatures. We had one summer sleeping bag (14C comfort) and had to use it with a fleece inner otherwise it was too cold to sleep in it.
A sleeping pad can be either a cheap foam one or a blow-up, we prefer the second option as it’s more comfortable for sleeping and can fit in the backpack.
Cooking gear is good to have. Many campsites have a kitchen you’ll still need your pots and utensils as those are usually scares. You’ll need a cooking set when going on a multi-day trek. Gas for camping stoves can be bought almost at any shop on the Carretera Austral.
Comfortable shoes are a must-have for those who’re planning to hike, waterproof shoes are better as you can get quite a bit of rain even in summer. More details on gear and clothing can be found in our Patagonia packing list post.
Recommended books and guidebooks
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The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
