Without a doubt, one of the most if not the most popular activity in Sri Lanka is the famous ride on the train. The Kandy to Ella train has exploded in popularity in recent years with tourists flocking to what is perhaps one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.
I’ve been on other train rides that traverse similarly beautiful landscapes like the Belgrade to Bar, Montenegro train ride in the Balkans so I had to take this train ride while traveling through Sri Lanka.
This blog post will go into detail about everything there is to know about this train ride. There is so much information on other blogs, but there were always questions that were unanswered during my research. Hopefully this blog post will provide you everything you need to know to plan your trip!
What is the Kandy to Ella train ride?
The train journey from Kandy to Ella in Sri Lanka is a mesmerizing experience that weaves through some of the island’s most stunning landscapes. As the train chugs away from Kandy, the scenery transforms from bustling city life to the lush greenery of the Hill Country.
Leaving behind the historic city of Kandy, known for its sacred Temple of the Tooth, the train begins its ascent into the mist-covered mountains. The rhythmic clack of the wheels against the tracks creates a soothing soundtrack as the train winds its way through tea plantations that blanket the hillsides.
The windows of the train frame picturesque scenes of terraced tea gardens, where women in colorful saris pluck tea leaves with deft fingers. Rolling hills give way to cascading waterfalls, their mist catching the sunlight in a dazzling display.
As the train continues its journey, it navigates through tunnels carved into the mountainside, adding an element of adventure to the trip. Each tunnel is a moment of darkness followed by a burst of light as the train emerges into open valleys, revealing panoramic vistas of emerald green landscapes stretching to the horizon.
Passing by small villages, the train offers glimpses into local life. Children wave excitedly as the train rumbles past, while farmers tend to their fields with a backdrop of mist-covered peaks.
As the sun begins its descent, casting a golden hue over the landscape, the train arrives in Ella. This small town, nestled amidst the mountains, welcomes weary travelers with its laid-back charm and stunning views. Ella is a beautiful mountain town famous for its breathtaking landscapes and its Nine Arch Bridge which is home to amazing photo opportunities.
Why is the Kandy to Ella Train so famous?
There really is no good reason to why this train ride became so popular. It is simply the trends of travel and the effect of Instagram. Few people posted amazing videos and photos of this train ride and people became obsessed. Nowadays, huge swarms of crowds come to Sri Lanka just to take this train.
The Sri Lanka trains are older diesel powered trains that were built in an older time. These slow trains travel all throughout Sri Lanka so technically, you could take the same photos hanging out of the train pretty much on any route in the country. For example, there are trains from Colombo to Kandy which has very few tourists.
However, the train ride from Kandy to Ella is the most picturesque segment of train line in Sri Lanka. You pass through countless tea fields, bridges, tunnels, and other incredible landscapes.
When is the train from Kandy to Ella?
The train from Kandy to Ella runs every day multiple times. The best times to take this train are in the mornings so you can arrive in Ella by the afternoon.
You’ll want to take train 1005 and 1015 which arrive in Kandy at 8:47am and 11:03 am arriving in Ella at 15:40 and 17:00. This train makes multiple stops through the journey (at least 10 stops) where it will drop off and pick up other travelers.
Here is a time table for these two trains
As I did not have any reserved tickets, I opted to get on the train at Nanuoya. As we rented a driver and car for our trip, we had him drive us in the morning from Kandy to Nanuoya with plenty of stops along the way to visit tea fields. Our driver continued driving by himself to Ella while we took the train, ultimately meeting us at the Ella train station.
The different classes of the Kandy to Ella train
Sri Lankan trains, while old, are not as bad as I thought they would be. I had this image of really decrepit and terrible trains but these were far from that. All of the train classes are generally quite acceptable and comfortable. Obviously, you won’t get European quality fast trains or Japanese bullet trains but for the price and the beautiful landscapes, it’s way more comfortable than I thought.
There are numerous classes on this train from Kandy to Ella. Understanding the differences is key to having an amazing trip.
First Class Reserved Tickets
The most expensive and “luxurious” tickets are the first class reserved class. This class sits at the front of the train and has the most comfortable and spacious seats. This is also the only section that is air conditioned if that is important to you. I found the train ride to be plenty breezy and cool so Air conditioning is definitely unnecessary.
The main downside to the first class cabins are that the windows do not open all the way and you can’t lean your head out like the other cabins. First class is also disconnected from the rest of the train and there is nowhere to stand outside of the door to get the iconic photos hanging out of the train.
I think first class is generally disconnected from the real experience of this train which is to be able to take amazing photos and hang out of the train. Otherwise, you’re just taking an old train slowly through the countryside when you could get the same experience in a car.
2nd class reserved tickets
Second class reserved tickets are the best bang for your buck in Sri Lanka trains. These seats, while not as spacious as first class, are still plenty comfortable. There is no AC in second class but I didn’t find this to be really necessary given how breezy the cabins get (it was 35 degrees outside btw).
The 2nd class section has windows that open as well as access to the train doors which allow you to hang out of the train. That’s one of the main reasons to take this train ride after all.
After you’re done taking the Instagram photos of your dream? Simply go back to your assigned seat where you can relax, take a nap, eat, or all of the above.
3rd class reserved tickets
3rd class and 2nd class are essentially the same. Both cabins are not air conditioned and the seating is generally similar in design. If you can score 3rd class reserved seat, it is just as good as 2nd class in my opinion. 3rd class reserved tickets allow you a fixed seat, while also allowing you access to the main train doors which will let you take the best photos.
The windows also roll down which means you can stick your head out for amazing views.
2nd and 3rd class unreserved tickets
If you can’t score any reserved seats, the only option left for you is the 2nd and 3rd class unreserved tickets. These tickets are sold at the ticket counter at the train station on the day of departure and these cabins are essentially the same. There is no need to prebook these tickets because you can only buy them at the counter. The train from Kandy to Ella does not sell out meaning there is an unlimited number of 2nd and 3rd class unreserved tickets.
3rd class unreserved tickets do not sell out. You will always be able to get on a train no matter what.
Simply show up to the train station a few minutes before its scheduled departure time and you will be able to scoop up 3rd class unreserved tickets for very cheap (I paid 300 LKR for mine in Feb 2024).
However, 2nd and 3rd class unreserved is first come first serve in terms of seating. It’s unlikely you’ll get a seat in this cabin as people will be getting on long before Kandy. 3rd class unreserved is typically home to more locals but in recent years, the amount of tourists to locals is 50/50. Standing room seating is the norm here so try your best to make your way to the door openings to at last get a good view.
If you’re standing in the aisle, you’ll have to bend your knees to see any view which kind of makes the whole ride a bit pointless. Try to get your way to the train doors where you’ll at least be able to have a good view of the surroundings.
Booking the train from Kandy to Ella
Booking tickets for this train ride can probably warrant a blog post on its own! It’s not as easy as many others make it out to be so hopefully I can help clear up all the questions here.
Having read through countless blogs on this, I knew I wanted to ride in the 2nd class reserved seating. We wanted the quintessential photos leaning out the train while overlooking the tea fields, but also with the comfort of a pre-booked seat. Turns out, this is next to impossible if you don’t book it well in advance. This is no joke. You’re competing with hundreds of other hungry Instagrammers that want this train ride so you need to book this way in advance.
How far in advance you say? I would say at last a month.
Booking tickets through 3rd party agents
These tickets are released by the Sri Lanka Railways a month in advance and are almost always scooped up immediately by various travel agents throughout the country. These guys will scoop up tickets at face value which is about LKR LKR and resell it for about 10x the price. I found it was almost impossible to buy tickets at face value.
For example, if I try to book tickets ahead of time on the official Sri Lankan Railways website, I get almost no options. The below search is searching for May 3, 2024 on Apr 3, 2024 and this is as far in the future as I’m allowed to search for on the Sri Lankan Railways website.
You can see the price for a 3rd class reserved seat is 1200 LKR ($4 USD) and there are only 2 available tickets. If I searched for any dates before May 3, 2024, there are absolutely no free tickets.
If I look for the same tickets on 12Go which is a big travel agent in Asia, I get way more options.
You can see that the ticket prices are much more expensive than what the official prices are. There is are also the coveted reserved seats that you want to have when taking this train. The 3rd class reserved ticket on this website is $17 which is 4x the price of the official website!
Unfortunately, if you want to book 2nd or 3rd class reserved tickets, you have no options but to buy your ticket at least one month in advance through one of these travel agents.
Buy tickets at the train station on the day of departure
If you want to buy tickets at face value, your best bet is to visit the station on the day of departure and buy it at the counter. You’re unlikely to find any tickets that are available outside of 3rd class unreserved but you’ll at least be able to book these tickets at face value.
My train ticket from Nanuoya to Ella was about 300 LKR which allowed me to ride the train that same day.
How is the Kandy to Ella train ride itself?
After buying our tickets for 3rd class unreserved at the train station, we proceeded to the train platform to wait the half hour for our train to come. We were not the only ones. I was so shocked at the sheer amount of tourists on this train that I had to ask myself if I was even taking the right train or not.
There was no mistake. The crowds at the train stop was enormous. There were literally hundreds of tourists waiting to board the same train as us and I had no idea how everyone was going to fit. I would say the crowd at Nanuoya train station was about 90% tourists.
Once the train arrived, it was an absolute stampede to get on the train. Everyone swarmed into the train hoping to find a seat or a place to stand on the 3rd class unreserved section. My partner got punched in the face during the mayhem (albeit not on purpose). There were 0 seats available on the train as many had been on the train for hours.
The train was shoulder to shoulder packed and hardly any room to walk around. I managed to stand near the doors as I boarded near the end of the process. In fact, one of the best tips I have is to board nearer to the end so you have easier access to the train door.
Once the train ride started, it was super tight quarters with people standing and walking over each other. There are also train vendors walking through the train (through the mayhem) selling snacks. The views, however, were absolutely incredible and seeing the tea farms from the train was something else.
How to take the best photos on the Kandy to Ella Train?
Let’s be honest, most of you reading this post also want to take your quintessential photos of this train. Here are some tips I have for taking the best photos.
Book a 2nd or 3rd class ticket as this allows you access to the train doorThe best photos are taken when the train is turning. This gives you that beautiful curved train shot with more of the train in the photo. Bonus points if you can do this while the train is crossing through a valleyWhile one hangs out of the train door, the best place to take a photo is from one of the train windows adjacent to the door. One or two windows down is ideal in my opinion. It’s not great to take photos from another train door as this is too far. You’ll get a lot of people in your photo that are sticking their heads of the windowTurn that shutter speed on to high as the train is always movingDon’t be scared to really lean out. Keep your back and arms straight for the most dramatic effects
My best tips for the Kandy to Ella Train
Here are all my tips that I wish I knew before taking the train from Kandy to Ella
Book your ticket at least one month in advance and book the 2nd or 3rd class reserved seats.If you can’t book a seat, get on the train near the end so you will be able to stand next to the door for your photosIf you’re traveling from Kandy to Ella, I would try to sit on the right side of the train from Kandy to Nanuoya and on the left side from Nanuoya to EllaThe best part of the train ride is from Nanuoya to Ella as this is the most scenicIf you don’t have a reserved ticket, take the train starting from Nanuoya. Nanuoya to Ella is only 3 hours whereas the train from Kandy to Ella is 7 hours. Standing for 7 hours will suck and get old very fast.
Is the Kandy to Ella train worth it?
Finally, time for some real talk. Is the Kandy to Ella train ride in Sri Lanka worth doing?
To be honest, I wasn’t the biggest fan of this train ride. So many bloggers and Instagrammers have popularized this train ride to the point that it’s just too packed now. I was shoulder to shoulder with people for the first half hour before I muscled my way to the train door. Once I got to the train door, then I was able to get all the photos and views I wanted. The crowds started to disperse as we got closer to Ella but the best views are anyways in and around the Nanuoya area.
If I could do it over again, I would book the 2nd class or 3rd class reserved ticket well in advance through one of the travel agents. Having a guaranteed seat and choosing when I want to go take photos would have made this ride bunch more pleasant. Otherwise, braving 3rd class unreserved again is something I would seriously consider re-doing.
Do I think this ride is overhyped?
No.
The views are simply too amazing and the experience is too unique to make it overrated. I was also fortunate enough to get myself a space next to the train door so I could hang out of the train. Not only did this allow me to get amazing photos, but I could also see more of the views. If I couldn’t do this, then I honestly don’t think there’s even a point to take this train ride.
